Three days of success and dining in Pōneke – accompanied by a very successful buffet.
I often joke that the best thing about Wellington is knowing I have a flight out. This is not to say that it is against our capital – but I like to know that I have a few days to take advantage of it. A few weeks ago I spent a few days in the capital, partly to try out the restaurants in the CBD and to experience Kia Mau, the country’s biggest festival, now bigger and better than ever. This is a diary of my three day trip.
AAfter checking into the QT Wellington – my favorite place to stay in the city – I take half an hour and take a shower, and head out for dinner. Lulu to, which is similar to the hotel and the BATS Theater, where my friend and I are seeing a show later. It’s 5pm on the dot so the place is coldly empty.
Our meal consists of mashed potatoes (garlic-whipped potatoes, with soaked potato skins) for me, and roasted cauliflower (with toasted almonds, red currants and parsley) for her. Of course, this should share the plate, but we all know our side of the road. I’m of the opinion that every restaurant should have mashed potatoes, maybe that’s why I don’t get asked my opinion on food very often.
From there it’s a quick run to my first Kia Mau show, and it’s one I managed to catch in Auckland – really good. About UFO Sightings Outside Mt Roskill and Reon Bell. It’s a disturbing solo show about a 1980s housekeeper Tāmaki Makarau who believes aliens are coming for him. Bell, who also produced the vocals, is excellent in solo performances. He plays comedy without losing the human truth, and plays the truth without losing heart. It’s a solo you enjoy watching, not sitting there admiring. You’ll leave wanting to see everything Bell can do.
From BATS, it’s a quick run across the street to the Hannah Playhouse (and how great is it to see Hannah on the show again?) The uterus, a loud, fun, loud show that goes well into the night. It’s the kind of thing you want to see at a local festival: lots of performers on stage, having fun, feeling the oats. Everyone passes out at night feeling heavier than when they wake up.
MeIt’s a sign of a good restaurant that you can go to the counter, the big glasses that cover the last night’s sleep, ask quietly “Is it okay if I order the children’s menu?”, and be greeted with a warm welcome. “Where!”
That’s how I ended up outside the Oriental Parade Lola sat down on a bright Wellington morning with a bowl of fabulous bread and a classic Coke in a glass bottle. A breakfast fit for a king (son). Actually there are no records.
Lunch, then join the Mokomoko team (read below!) Karaka. The whole menu looks amazing, but I have to have the hot hāngi (boiled chicken, pork, potato, pumpkin, kumara, puta, cabbage and rēwena). It’s very smoky and filling, so much so that I end up washing it down afterwards with a cold Heineken. Better than the food are the vibes – very friendly staff and people who come in for lunch.
Pa If If, I have a Wellington Wash, a sickeningly sweet and pleasantly boozy rum-based cocktail. Kui Kui is probably the only place in the city that looks like it was decorated by your best aunt, which is perfect for me. It’s the only one with mince pies on the menu, which I plan to try next time. I stop in for a quick drink at the Dixon St mainstay Eva Beva, and very quick gossip. Wine? House sav. Gossip? Edited.
Dinner sees me and my friend from last night Apache. I order the salmon packets which are exactly what they should be, no more and no less, while my friend gets the organic tofu and squash dumplings. It feels strange to be in the middle of a traditional party, eating at a Vietnamese restaurant called an American helicopter named after a group of Native American tribes, but here we are. The food is good!
From there, we’re going to Circa, Wellington’s theater, to watch it Lizard. It is a kind of show that a festival like Kia Mau exists on the platform. Mokomoko doesn’t care much about appearance, let alone the impact of the audience, and is designed to start a conversation, or change a mind. Everything else is secondary. Sherilee Kahui’s sister, who is also a member of the world, will join Mycah Keall’s Moko in a journey to live in the world she has always dreamed of. It’s funny, it’s scary, and it makes me want to see what it’s like at a regional theater festival, and soon.
The edge of Lizard and Their Words. Kia Mau allows local artists to have a higher platform, in a safer environment than they would otherwise. But it also gives local audiences access to other cultures, and events, to see what’s happening there. Their Words is Lara Kramer’s follow up to her show the windwhich was presented in Kia Mau 2019. It is a mixture of theatre, art, and dance so it defies easy labeling.-
We end the night R Bar – and I must emphasize that this trip is not part of my official WellingtonNZ tour, but part of my impulsive “let’s have another trip” humanity. For whatever reason, we are introduced to the bar owner, and are offered a number of interesting cocktails (some of which are lit on fire) and premium rums (which are not).
Field is Green I can’t be near my hotel room without being in it, and when I look at a day full of food, what do I want to choose for lunch? Ice cream. In particular, vanilla gelato with chilli, coconut and sour cherry with lemon and white smoothie on the side. It’s all very well, and I continue to live a fantasy life.
After a quick shower – I can’t count the showers at QT very much – I look up Wakefield Street Concorde, greeted by the friendliest host I’ve ever met over the weekend (maybe except for the owner of R Bar, but pirate visits are on a different level). I have a mimosa (challenge me, I’ll see art after this!) and a side of scrambled eggs – light as clouds I can’t see. As Wellingtonians say, you can’t beat a cloudless day.
“I could be in a Reuben Paterson painting,” I say to myself as I walk through the City Gallery, to take in Only the Dream Remains, the largest exhibition of Paterson’s work to date. I am familiar with Paterson’s work from a distance, both physically and academically, but the opportunity to wander through his colorful world, his deep thoughts, was a real joy. To that end I’m listening to Lontalius’ latest single, one deep mimosa, it’s about as beautiful of an afternoon as I could hope for.
One nap and another shower later, I’m in Noble Rot Wine Bar for a light dinner and snack. My friend has a Karma Gingerella, I have a large glass of semillon, and we both soak up the warm air outside. I can’t help but miss Duke Carvell every time I drink outside in Wellington, but Noble Rot seems to be creating a new vibe for the city: magical and divine corners, with few barriers between them. One minute you could be at a Wellington institution that has been around for years, the next you cross the street and you’re somewhere that looks like it opened a week ago. Both are important.
I run from the charcuterie to the Michael Fowler Center ‘Avaiki Nui Social’. Three hours of great Cook Island music at the Michael Fowler Centre? They can only be Kia Mau. It’s hard to call it the highlight of my weekend – see it all above – but the memory that will be a little deeper, in the safe corner of my brain, is seeing Ardijah doing ‘Watchin’ U’ with so much joy. See the audience.
My weekend is coming to an end Mā and Fly Hunnies to Meow, a dream come true I’ve been loving the WYNONA remix of Mā’s ‘Kitchen’, for months now. I haven’t been to Meow in over ten years, and this game reminds me that it’s a great (non-pirate) place to hang out all night.
It wasn’t until I flew out – about a week later, after many shows, and much wine – that I realized that the special way I felt was not due to Wellington, my favorite city, however. for Kia Mau. To be in a place, full of people of a different kind doing all kinds of rituals, full of joy, full of feeling, is an experience to appreciate.
Usually, the best thing for me about Wellington is knowing that I have a flight out. At this point, the best thing was knowing that I had a return flight.
The author’s trip was arranged and organized by WellingtonNZ.
#week #Kia #Mau #Festival
